By Ruth Ann Ruiz
The Post Features Editor
I embarked on a journey to explore the Wild Atlantic Way and take in all the beauty of the Emerald Isle. From one Island to another, what would I find?
My intention had been to develop my skills as a photographer on a photo tour with an award-winning photographer leading the way along with seeing a beautiful Island nation.
Dublin airport was a breeze!
“You are a wee bit early our check in is at 4:00. If you’d like, we’ll mind your bags for you whilst you refresh in our lounge or stroll down to the park,” the sound of her voice was music to my ears, and I couldn’t wait to hear more enchanting speech.
Day One all was cheery and good. We visited museums, including Trinity College’s library and strolled the streets of Dublin, stopping for a bit in a park and enjoying the chatter of the Irish people. Yes, it did rain and stop and start again.
The journey included a stop at a castle, and it was very grand, but we were told there would be many castles along the way (It turned out to be true there are many castles in Ireland and many churches).
Onwards to Cork, a seaside village which had been the last port of call for the Titanic. As one would imagine, the site has been turned into a museum and the little town has grown up to be a place of life and happiness.
Kinsale, another beautiful seaside village, brought me a bit of luck that wasn’t so cheery. I broke my toe. I was treated at an Irish orthopedic urgent care facility. They were professional and kind. All was as well as could be. The tour left without me and told me to catch up to them.
Taking an evening to catch my breath and rest my broken toe brought some unforeseen challenges. The innkeeper was gracious and allowed me an extra night at a reduced rate but there was no room to be found for the following night in the seaside village. This left me a bit on edge as I tried to sleep.
The next day, I elected to use a taxi and catch up with the tour. After all, it was only a broken toe and I was determined to see Ireland. I caught them, but I was forbidden to ride on the bus as it was assumed I had been exposed to Covid at the urgent care center.
This was another of those unlucky moments. I would need to secure my own ground transportation. My lodging was part of the prepaid package, and the Irish weren’t afraid of me; they thought it was a wee bit much that I was kicked off the bus.
The innkeeper in Killarney ushered me into a newly-opened room designed for guests with limitations, like mine. While at dinner, the restaurant owner inquired about my injury. When I said, “I broke my toe,” he replied with a jolly spirit and a twinkle in his eye, “Oh how nice,” he said. He went out of his way to be sure I was properly accommodated with excellent service.
While in Killarney one must experience The Ring of Kerry. Of course, with one of my daughters named Kerry, I was going to make sure I had the experience. This required a driver for the day to make the circular tour.
The Ring of Kerry was spectacular!!! With every turn there was another unpredicted sight to see, such as one of the many historic circle forts that are found throughout the country. Ireland was formed by glacial scraping, so there was a whole lot of cool rock formations and striations in the rocks.
The shades of green were uncountable. Sheep and cows roamed freely along the hills and mountains. The sheep are marked with dye to brand them. The dye allows them to mix in with different neighboring flocks sharing the grass along the hills and mountains. Kerry Gold butter comes from all grass-fed cows roaming the Ring of Kerry.
I watched long rows of daffodils blowing in the wind. They seemed to grow like wildflowers throughout Ireland. They brightened the day and evening hours with their cheery yellow blossoms.
Stopping to learn more about the potato famine and the harsh lives of Irish peasants was an educational experience.
The Cliffs of Moher were next on my list. Though I wouldn’t be able to freely enjoy a run along the cliffs (you know, like in the movies), I had even packed a long dress and a shawl, so I could act out a unique Irish experience.
I was given a buggy ride, which is to say I rode in a golf cart along the path just a little way up the hill. A winter storm was blowing in. Rain began pelting out of the sky much like one of our tropical storms, but it was cold. I made it just before the park closed to visitors and had my moments viewing the majestic cliffs.
Next stop: a genuine Irish pub kind of off the tourist path since I had a driver of my own. The Guinness stew was divine. I wish I could remember the name of the pub, but I was a bit out of sorts from the weather and the toe which got cold from the rainwater seeping through the boot.
All along this journey, the Irish were kind and helpful with me and my crutches.
The wind and rain followed me into Galway. Lights flickered at the hotel and the internet went down. This was a bit unnerving for me, but the Irish took it all in good stride. “Tis the weather if it weren’t for the weather, we’d be the most beautiful country. But if it weren’t for the weather, we’d not have our many shades of green” was a statement repeated by many Irish.
Continuing my journey through the countryside, I spent time exploring an abbey and two cemeteries with a one-night stop in Sligo, where I kept to my room recovering from the day.
Landing in Donegal, the last stop on the Wild Atlantic Way, I spied a bay cruise, perfect and just what I needed. With my boot, which was a slipper made of wool and a leather bottom along with one hiking boot and two crutches, I hobbled onto the boat. I sat back relaxed and learned more of Irish history.
Donegal, as with many of the port cities, was a last port of call for those who sailed to the new world. “If you go any further West you’d be in America” was the customary saying.
I never saw them but was told I was listening to Magpies during my stay in Donegal. Their day long singing was soothing music to my soul.
There were more cliffs, the highest ones outlining the Atlantic Ocean in all of Europe, and I was going to see them!!! Another local taxi drive out to the countryside was required. I stopped off on the beach along the Wild Atlantic Way to put my toes in the sand for just a bit, because it was too cold for this Southwestern woman to bear more than a few seconds, though there were bathers in the frigid water.
We reached the Sleive League Cliffs, and my eyes were given a magnificent treat! If you are up for it, you can take a four-hour hike along the cliffs. On that day, with the cold weather and rain that would come and go, there didn’t seem to be any humans making the journey across the cliffs.
The evening ended with an invite to crash a bachelor party, but I elected to bid them well and explore a pub on my own. The pub was ringing with merriment, music, drinking, singing, and dancing, just as portrayed in movies.
The last stretch was a return taxi to Dublin. The driver chatted a bit, sharing his thoughts on Irish politics. From all of what he said, what grabbed my attention the most was his wish to purchase salmon when he is in a nursing home rather than eat fish fingers.
After an official Covid-19 test, I was free to fly to the US. Before the flight, there was security and then more security. My little Irish bootie was swabbed at least three times, but they did it all in good cheerful spirits and they did usher me to the front of every line without me even requesting.
Riding along the countryside with taxi drivers was a great way to learn a lot about the people, history, and culture. One of my drivers had been in a family of butchers, but he left the industry as it was no longer needed with grocery stores taking over his line of work.
Another driver drove in silence with music on the radio at a peaceful level; when the news came on, he turned the volume up. Another driver shared his story of losing his wife and how he took up taxi driving in his retirement so as to not keep burdening his children with his sorrows.
I did not see any leprechauns, nor did I ask if they existed. But the jovial spirit of the people gave me a hint that perhaps leprechauns once visited the island and spread their happy spirit to the people.
I am so thankful I had the opportunity to experience Ireland. If God allows me, I plan to see more of this great big wonderful world in the coming years.
